Leading Sail Panel or A-Pillar Roof Joints
Are you having to fill your roof panel to sail panel or roof panel to A-pillar joints? Many people today are using a plastic filler (reinforced) where the factory used lead. There is much debate about this, but one thing is for certain - the lead joints worked.
Most people have never leaded before and therefore are afraid of it. Don't - it really is quite easy to control. Another thing that concerns people is the toxicity of lead - this certainly is an issue for airborne lead dust, so you should not sand it with pneumatic tools and you should always wear a dust mask. Most of your lead shaping should be done with a body file, but still wear a mask when filing the lead. When applying lead to the joint there is little hazard since you are not boiling the lead (or should not be!). Today most everyone uses a lead-free solder, so such precautions are not necessary. The key to a good lead joint is ensuring the metal is clean, prepped properly and not putting too much heat into the panel or lead - it requires surprisingly little heat.
Here is a really good YouTube video on seam leading - it is about the most straightforward and detailed video that shows you how to do it correctly.
For leading supplies try Johnson Manufacturing (www.johnsonmfg.com). They are a good source for information as well. 5 pounds of #523 lead-free auto body solder will easily do the sail panels on a GM A-Body. (Johnson doesn't support BSE in any way - we just like the product, there are bound to be other sources that are good too)
You will need:
Lead (we use 523 bar solider, 5 pounds will suffice for sail panels)
Flux/Tinning (Johnson P/N 530 Body Tinning Paste)
Hardwood spoon to smooth - we made our own, but you can buy them too
Clean rags (we use shop paper towels or cotton rags DO NOT USE MAN-MADE FABRIC RAGS
Knotted wire wheel to clean the joint initially - IT MUST BE VERY CLEAN