Leading Sail Panel or A-Pillar Roof Joints

Are you having to fill your roof panel to sail panel or roof panel to A-pillar joints?  Many people today are using a plastic filler (reinforced) where the factory used lead.  There is much debate about this, but one thing is for certain - the lead joints worked.  

Most people have never leaded before and therefore are afraid of it.  Don't - it really is quite easy to control.  Another thing that concerns people is the toxicity of lead - this certainly is an issue for airborne lead dust, so you should not sand it with pneumatic tools and you should always wear a dust mask.  Most of your lead shaping should be done with a body file, but still wear a mask when filing the lead.  When applying lead to the joint there is little hazard since you are not boiling the lead (or should not be!).  Today most everyone uses a lead-free solder, so such precautions are not necessary.  The key to a good lead joint is ensuring the metal is clean, prepped properly and not putting too much heat into the panel or lead - it requires surprisingly little heat.

Here is a really good YouTube video on seam leading - it is about the most straightforward and detailed video that shows you how to do it correctly.

For leading supplies try Johnson Manufacturing (www.johnsonmfg.com).  They are a good source for information as well.  5 pounds of #523 lead-free auto body solder will easily do the sail panels on a GM A-Body.  (Johnson doesn't support BSE in any way - we just like the product, there are bound to be other sources that are good too)

You will need:

• Lead (we use 523 bar solider, 5 pounds will suffice for sail panels)

• Flux/Tinning (Johnson P/N 530 Body Tinning Paste)

• Hardwood spoon to smooth - we made our own, but you can buy them too

• Acid Brush

• Propane torch

• Clean rags (we use shop paper towels or cotton rags DO NOT USE MAN-MADE FABRIC RAGS

• Body file

• Knotted wire wheel to clean the joint initially - IT MUST BE VERY CLEAN